General Health, Training & Grooming
General Health Information (Common Illnesses & Disease)
Spaying and Neutering, Hormones
Grooming and Molting
Litter Box Training
Bonding
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General Health Information (Common Illnesses & Disease)
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Besides keeping a clean and safe environment for your rabbit, learning to recognize signs of poor health will help you prevent disease outbreak in your rabbitry or home. Early recognition of health problems will help you contact a vet as soon as you notice symptoms, treat the rabbit as quickly as possible, or be able to quickly isolate a sick animal before disease has a chance to spread to others. It is important to observe and handle your rabbits regularly so that you can detect potential problems quickly. Some health problems you may be able to diagnose and resolve on your own, but other health problems may be more complicated and require a veterinarian. If you are not sure what the problem is, or if your rabbit is experiencing a lot of discomfort do not hesitate to call a rabbit savvy vet. There are many diseases and conditions that can affect rabbits; a few of the more common ones are described below. You are encouraged to continue with your own research to develop a complete understanding of rabbit diseases & parasites.
General Conditions
Rabbits are susceptible to a great variety of conditions brought on by an equally great variety of causes. The lists of causes, symptoms and treatments below should not be viewed as complete. If you suspect your rabbit is experiencing health problems please do further research on your own or consult a professional before you begin treatment.
Hutch Burn/ Urine Scald
Cause: Poor sanitation, wet cages. Splash of urine off of incorrectly placed urine guards.
Symptoms: Chapping and inflammation of the genitals.
Treatment: Apply antibiotic cream. Ensure proper sanitation.
Sore Hocks
Cause: Thin fur covering on feet, long toenails, rough cage floor.
Symptoms: Loss of fur on bottom of feet. Red, dry, ulcerated foot pads. Rabbit may be reluctant to walk.
Treatment: Antibiotic ointment may help. Provide a solid surface in the cage for rabbits to rest on.
Ringworm
Cause: Fungal infection. Ring- worm can be transmit- ted to other types of animals and to humans.
Symptoms: Crusty, circular shaped patches which appear in areas on the rabbit’s face or feet. Hair loss will occur.
Treatment: Treat rabbits with fungicidal cream or lotion. Be sure to disinfect cage, feeders, free roam areas & toys.
Pasteurellosis
Has 3 forms:
1. Snuffles
2. Hemorrhagic Septicemia
3. Abscesses
Cause: Pasteurella sp. organism. Seems to be further induced by stress.
Symptoms: Sneezing, nasal discharge, poor condition, difficulty breathing. Pot-bellied, diarrhea, respiratory distress. Lumps, usually around the head and neck.
Treatment: No specific treatment. Reduce stress, improve ventilation, administer antibiotic to prevent secondary infection. Drain abscesses, treat with antibiotics. Seek veterinary assistance.
Pneumonia
Cause: Bacterial infection of the lungs.
Symptoms: Quick laboured breathing with nose held high. Blush colour to lips and ears. Lungs congested.
Treatment: Antibiotics effective if administered early.
Ear Infection
Cause: The size and many folds of skin within their ears, even the smallest build up of dirt can lead to bacterial growth, making them particularly prone to inflammation and infection.
Symptoms: Head tilt, loss of appetite, behavior changes, discomfort, grinding their teeth, cold-like symptoms and discharge.
Treatment: Your vet will prescribe a course of antibiotics to treat bacterial ear infections and they may also recommend anti-inflammatories. X-rays may sometimes be necessary to check for build up.
Malocclusion
Cause: Inherited condition. Occasionally can be due to accidental tooth breakage.
Symptoms: Elongated upper or lower teeth. May prevent the animal from eating.
Treatment: Clipping of teeth is a temporary solution.
Wry Neck/Head Tilt
Cause: Bacterial infection leading to inflammation of the middle ear.
Symptoms: Turning of the head to one side, loss of balance.
Treatment: Ear drops, consult veterinarian.
Weepy Eye
Cause: Inflammation of the conjunctiva usually because of a blocked eye duct.
Symptoms: Discharge from the eye. Matted fur around the eye.
Treatment: Eye drops, consult veterinarian for type. Help may be needed to open eye duct.
Mites
Ear Mites
Cause: Caused by the non-burrowing parasite Psoroptes cuniculiis. Infestation of outer ear with ear mites.
Symptoms: Brownish scabs in the ear canal. Scratching at the ears, shaking of the head.
Treatment: Treat with an insecticide, orally or topically. Repeat treatments may be necessary.
Fur Mites
Cause: Can come from hay or from another infected rabbit or area. Fur mites, most likely to be found on the back and neck. Fur mites do not burrow into the skin.
Symptoms: Reddened scaly skin, intense itching and scratching with some loss of hair.
Treatment: Treat with an insecticide such as ivermectin. Some cat flea products may work (Revolution). Thorough cleaning of the environment is essential.
Mange Mites
Cause: Mange mites, burrow into the skin.
Symptoms: Wounds, first on the lips and nose. Heavy scratching, loss of fur, scabs.
Treatment: Treat with an insecticide, surface treatment of wounds may also be necessary. Consider veterinary consultation. Thorough cleaning of the environment is essential.
Parasites
Parasites are a common problem in rabbits. Both internally and externally, rabbits can be plagued with a host of parasites which may go unnoticed for extended periods of time. Often, the only indication that there may be a parasite problem is that the animal is not gaining weight as it should, has runny stools, or has a dull fur coat or if you notice excessive signs of itching or scratching and infertility. The best course of action against parasites is always prevention through proper sanitation and sound management practices.
Coccidiosis
Cause: Caused by directly eating the contaminated feces of another infected rabbit. Microscopic protozoan (single cell) parasites attack the liver and/or the intestinal lining.
Symptoms: Diarrhea, weight loss, pot- bellied appearance, poor condition. Can lead to death.
Treatment: Use of a coccidiocide on a regular basis. Prevention through proper sanitation is key.
Intestinal Worms
Cause: Various types of worms (pin worm, tape worm...etc).
Symptoms: Difficult to detect. Poor condition, slow growth rate. Occasionally possible to see worms in the droppings. Recommended to deworm your rabbit every few months.
Treatment: Use of a wormer, consult vet as not all products are suitable for rabbits and not all products eliminate all types of worms.
Warbles
Cause: Botfly.
Symptoms: Swelling or isolated lump around the shoulders (similar to an abscess).
Treatment: Parasite must be removed. Seek veterinary assistance.
Spaying and Neutering, Hormones
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Spaying and Neutering
Spaying and neutering is highly suggested. Getting your rabbit fixed decreases destructive and territorial behavior and helps potty training. Unfixed females are prone to uterine cancer, and unfixed males are prone to aggression and spraying to mark their territory. Females can usually be fixed around 6 months, Males as soon as 3 months. After fixing a male he can still be fertile 4-6 weeks after surgery. Accidental litters happen all too often. Does can have 2-10 babies every single month as gestation is anywhere from 29-33 days. Spaying/neutering is necessary for bonding multiple rabbits together.
Hormones
Hormones begin to kick in from 3-8 months. Hollands can sexually mature at 4-6 months. Your snuggly little bunny will become moody! Spaying and neutering your rabbit can help calm hormones/temperaments, prevent accidental liters/cancer.
Grooming and Molting
You should be grooming your bunny at least once a week. I use a fine toothed flea comb as well as a small de-shedding tool called a “HairBuster" I use the small fine tooth comb for anything stuck to their bottoms and any smaller knots. The de-shedding tool has a metal brush lined with a rubber piece that’s great for their undercoat and gently pulls any loose tufts of fur. It’s great at snagging any fuzzies or fly-aways while you go.
III.
Molting
Bunnies typically molt twice a year! Younger bunnies can molt a little more trying to shed their baby coats! Some molts look way more extreme than others but when the weather begins to change your bunny will start to shed its coat. I recommend brushing your bunny at least 1-2 times a day when they’re molting to help avoid wool block. I also give my bunnies papaya tablets when I notice them shedding more to help their gut break up any hair they’ve ingested. You can also add a bit of pineapple juice or Apple Cider Vinegar into their water. This is important because their gut will slow down from not being able to break down hair and can send them into GI stasis. If your bunny isn’t a fan of being brushed you can gently pluck or slowly pull at the tufts of hair and they’ll all come flying out everywhere. Some people even use lint rollers!!!
Nail Trimming
The part everyone dreads…
Trimming bunny nails can be intense. I do it every other week or when really necessary. Trimming your bunnies ever growing nails down is really important! Shorter nails means they’re less likely to injure themselves, another bunny, or you!
If you have a bunny that doesn’t absolutely freak out consider yourself lucky. I have only a few buns that I can put treats in front of and slowly lift each paw to clip. If you have a bunny that hates getting its nails clipped here’s a few tips:
I clip nails two different ways depending on how skittish the bunny is. The first way I try is with their back feet still on the ground, raise their front two paws into my hands and clip their front feet. Then I cradle them like a baby with their back feet lifted up into my lap and their head above their heart. Some what diagonal so that I can clip their back feet without them kicking! If this doesn’t work for you then I suggest the “Bun Burrito”- simply grab a towel and wrap it around your bun and hold them in your lap. If the bunny is still writhing and kicking then I wrap bun up a little bit tighter and hold them in a cradled position or on their back if I absolutely have to. I use the towel to secure their back feet so they can’t thrash around while I clip the front feet. Then I cover their front feet so they feel more secure as I go in for the back feet.
I KNOW, I Know, I knowwwww never hold a bunny on their back because they’re “prey animals” and it can “trance” them.
In my opinion, my herds health is my top priority. If I cant fully flip them around and check everything out whether that be nails, vents or scent glands….I wouldn’t feel as though I’m doing the most thorough job I possibly can. I pride myself in early socialization and aim for all of my buns and babies to be absolutely comfortable with grooming and nail clipping by the time they’re ready to leave at 8 weeks!
Again, I’m not pinning my bunnies to the ground and trancing them nor am I advising anyone to do so. Bunnies naturally nurse on their backs when with their moms & I typically find kits passed out milk drunk on their backs after mom has hopped away. If you attend ARBA shows you’ll also see very experienced judges handling and examining all of the show rabbits similarly.
When clipping nails its important to look for their quick. The quick can be hard to see and locate. Shining a flashlight through their nail can help you identify where to trim. You can slowly press down twice to see if you’re too close to the quick. Bunnies will flinch or kick if you begin to cut to close to their quick. If your bun is nervous just take your time and be patient!
Scent Glands
Sometimes bunnies can get a little stinky! Scent glands might be the reason why!
I generally check scent glands while I’m trimming nails. Scent glands are located on both sides of the genitals. I wear gloves during grooming because I find it easier to handle them and move their hair around. I gently swab inside of both scent glands with a Q-tip to clean out any build up. Just like cleaning our own ears!
Litter Box Training
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Litter Box Training Your Bunnies
Which Type of Litter Box to Use?
You can either custom build your own litter box, or find a few different types online to purchase. The litter box should have high sides so they can’t kick out any litter or waste. I recommend having some type of rack or grate at the bottom of their box to separate the bunnies feet from stepping in their own waste & to keep their paws from being stained yellow or brown. I use puppy pads to line the bottom of my litter boxes with carefresh recycled paper bedding on top. The larger the litter box the better. I personally use the Jumbo Critter Ware scatterless triangle shaped litter boxes for the inside corner of my cages to begin training my young kits. For some larger adult buns I use the CalPalmy large rabbit litter box which has an easy pullout tray with a puppy pad on it. The only issue I have with the CalPalmy litter box is the grates are thicker so urine tends to collect on it more & stains their paws yellow.
Tips For Success
Keep in mind bunnies go the bathroom while they eat. Placing their hay feeders above their litter box is ideal. Much like puppies, if your bunny happens to have an accident outside of the litter box, which they will! Take a paper towel and clean up the mess, then place the waste and paper towel in the litter box. Eventually, your bunny will associate their smell with the litter box and know that’s where they should be going. If you notice that your bunny keeps having accidents in a particular spot, try moving the litter box to that exact spot. Praise and treats for positive reinforcement are also encouraged. Have patience and be consistent when training your bunny. Every bun is different. Some get litter box training down right away, others are more hormonal and are more likely to mark things until they’re neutered or spayed.
Bonding
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Bonding Your Bunnies
First things first, let’s be real. Not all bonds work out & not all rabbits want to be bonded to another. Have a plan B if things go wrong/ don’t work out.
Bonding Pairs
What are the best combinations for a bonded pair? Bonding two males is not recommended. It’s not impossible, but not easy. It is typically easier if they’re from the same litter or very very close in age. Typically you see a male/female or female/female bonded pair. It is also possible to bond more than just a pair but this takes more work and patience.
How To Bond Bunnies
Using separate pens or dog crates is the best way to start. Start by keeping a divider, or large gap between the two bunnies. I start my cages far apart and gradually bring them closer together. Grooming between the bunnies can occur once cages are touching, and they can interact with each other nose to nose. When starting to introduce your bunnies together, start in a mutual unmarked area. They can and will show signs of dominance at first. It is your responsibility to gauge and manage it. Humping/mounting, chasing, ignoring each other, snuggling, and grooming are all okay signals. Hissing, growling, thumping, whimpering, fur pulling and biting/fighting are not good or ideal but can happen as the bunnies establish dominance. I recommend bonding at a young age. Starting before they’re sexually mature and or hormonal is easiest. After a spay or neuter, re-bonding may be necessary as hormones could be running high. Re-bonding rabbits after surgery is suggested to start after 4 weeks of recovery. Every bun is different so patience is key as well as spaying & neutering! Taking your time to make sure everyone is safely bonded will give you peace of mind. Your personal bond with your own rabbits is just as important! Rabbits are meant to be a part of your family, not left to sit in a cage it’s whole life!
Is Your Bunny Lonely?
Do you think your bunny needs a friend? Rabbits are social animals and love interaction. If you are giving your bunny enough attention, they typically don’t need a friend. In my experience after bonding a bunny they begin to show less interest in me after they warm up to their new friend.